Thailand trip takes on added meaning

"The trip was incredible, more so because of the outpouring of gratitude by the Thais for our willingness to venture there under the circumstances," said James Jenkins, who visits the area for several weeks every other year with his wife, Ann.

He said everyone they encountered wanted to know why they were there, asking if they were there for work or on vacation.

"We were asked many, many times," Jenkins said. "It was an incredible experience made so by the Thai people. We told them we were there as tourists and they came over to thank us and shake our hands. They were so happy we were there."

While on a fishing trip with friends, Thai fishermen inquired as to the reason for the Jenkins' visit - and gave them a load of fish in appreciation for their decision to trek to Thailand so soon after the tsunami.

Although Thailand is safe right now, and not suffering from the spread of disease and rampant health problems initially predicted, tourism in the area has virtually come to a standstill.

"So much of what they do is based on tourism. We saw beaches we normally wouldn't be able to go to, because they were too crowded, that were empty," Jenkins said. He explained how a restaurant owner they knew repaired his place of business and reopened soon after the tsunami struck, only to shut down because there were no hotel guests to serve meals, opting to help a relative with his business.

In another instance, he said a French Hotel had only three registered guests and one next door had 90 Russians cancel their reservations for one week at month's end. It seems Chinese and Japanese tourists outnumber all others, while American tourists are not setting foot in Thailand.

Additionally, the suffering tourist market has prompted lay-offs and employers are requiring staff to take half-shifts.

According to Jenkins, what the Thais find most depressing is the prospect diminished tourism will spawn a dwindling Gross National Product. He said the Thais have dealt with the massive number of deaths, viewing it as a part of life, and have quickly moved to begin reconstruction.

Jenkins said at this time, while the government is rebuilding the area, great concern is also focused on the economy, for which the chief industry is tourism. The worry is it will not recoup soon enough, producing fears of even greater economic loss. He said the Thai attitude is "Life goes on," and "We have no choice; let's get on with things."

"They believe the people who died simply have another chance. They have gotten over the shock of the loss of lives. As Buddhists, their religion gives them a different look at life and death," he said. "It's a sanguine look at it."

While on vacation, the couple decided to volunteer to help support the relief efforts under way in Phuket. They transported antibiotics and food 50 miles from a hotel to one of the hardest hit areas, Khao Lak, a small fishing village, delivering these items to villagers over the course of a few days. The tsunami wiped out the entire Khao Lak beachfront and about half of its population of 10,000. Of the dozen or so hotels located there, only the three situated inland remain.

"The sight of the village reminded me of pictures I've seen of World War II where entire villages were obliterated, leaving only wood and metal," he said.

"Fishing boats were scattered like toys inland. As you come in over the mountain, after winding through the jungle, there was beautiful beachfront. Now it's all devastation, a handful of coconuts still standing. And in a few months time it will look like a desert."

Jenkins said a Thai friend explained how the existing coconut trees will soon die off due to the exposure of their root system to the salt water.

He said the government has built temporary shelters to house people and wants to rebuild homes and businesses on higher ground, where possible, but the natives balk at this idea. The Thais in the Khao Lak fishing village believe they have lived next to the sea for so many years, it is where they belong.

As of Feb. 14, the Asian death count stood at 287,534. Jenkins said trained forensics volunteers representing many countries were there as volunteers to perform victim identification, but "could not do much." Photographs of those reported as missing line the bulletin boards at local hospitals.

In 11 countries across Southeast Asia, it is believed anywhere from 228,000 to 310,000 people have been killed, and thousands were injured or went missing, when the tsunami swept through Sri Lanka and parts of Indonesia, India and Africa on Dec. 26. It ravaged these areas, causing deaths as far as the east coast of Africa, with the furthest recorded death occurring at Port Elizabeth in South Africa, which is 5,000 miles away from the quake's epicenter.

The earthquake originated in the Indian Ocean just north of Simeulue, an island off the western coast of northern Sumatra, Indonesia. The resulting tsunami devastated the shores of Indonesia, Sri Lanka, South India, Thailand and other countries with waves up to 100 feet.

At a magnitude of 9.0, it was the largest and most destructive earthquake since the 9.2 magnitude Good Friday Earthquake off Alaska in 1964. New analysis this month, however, suggested the magnitude was actually stronger; one study estimates it at 9.3, although this has not yet been confirmed.

The husband and wife travelers worked with their Thai friends "doing spontaneous things" when the occasion presented itself. One time, during a tour of the area, they came across a crowd of 500 to 600 people surrounding eight Germans, handing out brooms, mops, and pots and pans. Apparently, the do-gooders could not find a place to dole out the items they had collected and decided to set up a makeshift distribution center right on the roadside. Both James and Ann stopped to help dispense the items until nothing was left.

It was scenes like this that made it the trip of a lifetime.

"We can't say enough about the experience," Jenkins said. "We are certainly glad we went."